From Peruvian Vegetarian to a Unique Juice Shop

These six newcomers (or new menus) cover the gamut, from a 43 year vegetarian legend to a unique new juice shop. Alongside this month’s full restaurant reviews — Ancora, Turntable at Lord Stanley, Yellow Moto Pizza, downtown Napa guide, Maybeck’s — here’s what’s worth ordering at each. Last month’s standouts are here — and, as always, I’ve vetted, visited or ordered from each place reviewed:

Vegetarian Farm-to-Table Pioneer For Over 40 Years: Greens, Fort Mason Just before the summer, Greens announced their new executive chef (and fourth female chef in a lineage of pioneers, from founder Deborah Madison to Annie Somerville), Katie Reicher, who has been cooking there for years. The legendary vegetarian restaurant has pioneered farm-to-table vegetarian in the world since 1979. Greens’ Fort Mason waterside setting on the Bay gazing to Golden Gate Bridge has always been one of its greatest assets, and its history is heartwarming, opening as a part of the San Francisco Zen Center, a place for Zen students to practice Buddhist principles at work.

Though I’ve dined at Greens since moving to SF in 2001, I recently returned for the first time in years to check out young chef Reicher’s changing menu. A 90s vibe remains in the lofty space (lined with striking wood sculptures), translating down to uneven elements like way too much ice quickly diluting already imbalanced cocktails. But on the food side, warm potato curry puffs kick things off, cooled by cucumber raita and stone fruit chutney, while the season shines in a grilled Blossom Bluff peach “salad.” Though Reicher’s basil pappardelle noodles in tomatoes, chanterelles, black garlic, mirepoix miso, burrata, fried capers, balsamic and chili flakes, has been a bestseller this summer, I prefer the comfort of Brentwood corn and zucchini enchiladas in Greens’ signature tomatillo salsa verde.

There’s a solid local and international wine list, while the spirits selection is a beauty, from local greats like St. George Spirits, Austria’s fabulous Hans Reisetbauer schnaps (when I visited, Greens was offering their carrot, rowanberry or ginger fruit brandies) or amazing female Cognac grower distiller, Fanny Fougerat. Too bad the cocktails don’t showcase the rich spirits selection, although many of these spirits are best served neat. Greens’ guest chef summer dinner series has showcased local female chefs like Native American Crystal Wahpepah of Wahpepah’s Kitchen, the lovely Heena Patel of Besharam and coming up September 28th, gracious Ethiopian chef Adiam Tsegaye of Oakland’s Mela Bistro.

// 2 Marina Blvd., Building A; https://greensrestaurant.com

Hidden Cocktail Bar In Italian Food Fave: Fiorella Sunset & Bar Nonnina Owners Boris Nemchenok and Brandon Gillis opened their third Fiorella Sunset August 2021, retractable rooftop and all with crowd-pleasing dishes from chef de cuisine Scott Schneider (review here). I revisited a third time to finally check out tiny, hidden, reservations bar upstairs, Bar Nonnina, which opened May 2022. A striking marble bar, retro chandelier, fireplace and Italian countryside mural make for a damn charming space.

Though I immediately noticed a step down in cocktail complexity when opening bar manager Candace Jae left Fiorella Sunset (catch her unique cocktails now at Members Only/Finders Keepers), it seems they’ve now settled into a comfortable space with cocktails, particularly upstairs at Nonnina. Good time bartenders and staff make Nonnina fun, while playful tunes, weaving from Italian crooners of the 1950s-1960s to tiki/exotica and lounge, make it magic. I adore those musical genres and all made me feel right at home, as did all the banter with their team. Eight cocktails, one beer, three wines and a smart $28 flight of three cocktails, round out the focused drink menu with unique-to-Nonnina small plates like spring onion focaccia or a changing pasta (recently, corn tortellini in charred corn, ricotta, lemon, Parmigiano Reggiano).

Slushy di Modena (Bordiga Italian Gin, Amara D’Arancia Rosso, Lambrusco wine, strawberry pomegranate essence, lemon) is the prettiest drink, ideal for Lambrusco lovers like myself, especially watching ice being hand-shaved from a Japanese shaved ice machine. Scorppino (a play on a classic Venetian sgroppino) is a breezy aperitif of chamomile-infused grappa, lemon sorbet and prosecco with a sugar rim. But I especially took to Wild Pony’s pear-whiskey-cardamom melange of Suntory Toki Japanese whisky, Cardamaro, St. George Pear Brandy, a spritz of Laphroaig adding subtly smoky intrigue. Galileo’s Gaze is an irresistible cocktail, its base of strawberry-infused gin, Dolin Bianco Vermouth and beautifully bitter Salers Gentian aperitif given purple-to-blue haze as a butterfly pea flower ice cube slowly dissolves into the strawberry pink.

Heading back into the restaurant for a meal at Fiorella’s, I forgo longtime faves like their clam pie to try new additions to the menu. Only the corn risotto failed to capture me with its almost vanilla sweetness, but I loved the panzanella salad showing off glorious Peach Farm heirloom tomatoes and Caroselli melons, and a shockingly good spring calzone packed with favas, spring onions, pecorino, ricotta and mozzarella cheeses, its delicious breading being its key. Finishing with creme fraiche cherry gelato in brandied cherry jam and graham cracker crumble, this is an affordable feast, confirming why Fiorella remains packed.

// 1240 9th Avenue; www.fiorella-sf.com/sunset, www.barnonnina.com

New Vegetarian Push at Peruvian Great: La Mar, Embarcadero Peru’s pioneering chef Gastón Acurio opened his first U.S. restaurant in San Francisco nearly 15 years ago. I’ve been dining here — especially on that back deck gazing over ferries and boats in the Bay — since La Mar opened in 2008. From Pisco Sours to my beloved tiradito (think sashimi but in bright citrus sauces with chiles or the like), I assuage just a bit of my Peru cravings here. La Mar is a great place to get schooled on the uniquely Asian influence and history of Peruvian food where Chifa (Chinese Peruvian) or Nikkei (Japanese Peruvian) dishes epitomize Asia-meets-South-America, unlike any other cuisine.

Their latest change — not unlike when Acurio flew out in 2011 to announce only local, sustainable seafood would be used at his SF restaurant — is Peruvian chef Victoriano Lopez’ new vegetarian dishes. There aren’t just a couple vegetarian/vegan dishes added, but a good ten or so, from vegan causas (whipped purple potatoes) to mushroom or choclo (sweet corn) empanadas. Then there’s a wok stir-fried portobello mushroom saltado (like a classic steak-fries-rice lomo saltado) and vegan cebiche/ceviche laden with artichoke hearts and chips, beets, avocado, cancha (Andean toasted corn) and Jerusalem artichokes.

I appreciated it all but especially loved beet-infused organic quinoa and tapioca “poke” marked by fried kale, daikon and sweet potatoes, and their veggie Peruvian nigiri, including a tomato, basil and pesto nigiri with the tomato poached to an almost tuna-like texture. Their Mosto Verde Pisco Sour and El Volcan (aji amarillo-infused gin, lime, mezcal, Aperol, agave and aji amarillo ice) have long been my cocktail go-tos here, but a newer Spicy Melon (watermelon tajin lollipop-infused bourbon, rum, Chareau aloe vera liqueur, lemon, passionfruit, orange) is a worthwhile summer sip.

// Embarcadero Pier 1 ½, www.lamarsf.com

Tandoor Pomfret to Pistachio Korma: Aaha Indian Cuisine, Mission District Aaha Indian Cuisine opened this June 2022 offering a range of South Indian dishes (uthappam, vadas, dosas) alongside North Indian curries and the like. Given the range, not all of it stands out (like a bland dal tadka), but I’ve ordered takeout and delivery more than once as there have been multiple worthwhile dishes. First off, the tandoor pomfret fish fry, a flaky fish (popular in coastal India in places like Maharashtra, Chennai and Goa), tandoori-grilled in turmeric and garam masala spices. A chicken curry dosa is appropriately crispy/paper thin with hearty filling, while pistachio veg korma is a welcome korma change of pace, lush with pistachios. The pomfret fish is also found in the Malabar fish curry. Overall, a welcome Indian food and Mission newcomer.

// 3316 17th Street, https://aahasfo.com

Creative New Fruit Juice Shop: Zero&, Hayes Valley ZERO& already had two stores — one at Stanford Shopping Center (currently relocating and reopening this fall) and a tea truck at Livermore Outlets — when they opened their Hayes Valley SF and Pleasanton shops. The clean whites and blacks of their tiny counter shop hit Hayes Street late June 2022 with real fruit teas. Taking cues from boba shops, there are bobas and jellies you can add, while also (thankfully) choosing sweetness levels.

I strongly prefer cane sugar to icky sugar substitutes, and the five juices I tried were not too sweet other than the creamier Hayes Blue (colored naturally with butterfly pea flower), but even that was far from cloying. Juicy refreshers included aromatic Lychee Blossom laced with rose petals, and Two Grapeful: jasmine green tea loaded with grapes, grape jelly, tasting almost like childhood with a Concord grape flavor tempered by a salted, fluffy cream “cloud.” Another win here? There are few zero caffeine tea drinks, including my favorite: their signature, nurturing Coconut Zero, a whole coconut, including chunks of its sweet “meat,” coconut milk and coconut water.

Pastries from their sister brand Hanabi — plus French-Japanese mousse cakes — are also for offer, including the likes of pandan almond or sesame almond croissants, or my top pick: fluffy, cheesy, meaty salami garlic bread.

// 437 Hayes Street, www.zeroand.com

All Day New Turkish-Med Cafe: Zevi Cafe & Bistro, SoMa/Union Square Downtown newcomer, Zevi Cafe & Bistro, is an all-day Mediterranean/Middle Eastern cafe with Turkish leanings, ideal for takeout, delivery or a downtown stop. There are gyros (I dig the marinated chicken, vibrant with pickles and tzatziki sauce), mezze, salads, kebabs and just a couple favorite Turkish dishes (wish there were more), namely manti/Turkish dumplings, stuffed with spiced ground beef, doused in garlic yogurt and tomato butter sauce. Salads aren’t basic, thankfully, like the Zevi, hefty with dark greens (kale, etc.), tossed with avocado, cherry tomato, chickpeas, red radishes, cucumber papitas, artichokes, figs and Parmesan cheese in oregano sumac vinaigrette. While they also serve Americanized breakfasts (omelets, scrambles, breakfast burritos, French toast), Zevi is all about the Mediterranean/Turkish food.

// 67 5th Street, www.yelp.com/biz/zevi-cafe-and-bistro-san-francisco

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Founding The Perfect Spot in 2007, Virginia is World’s 50 Best Restaurants’ Chairperson, judging & writing/editor at 60+ publications on dining & drink globally